Climbing Resume

Graham Zimmerman photo - Tommy with Ice Pillar.png

2020 Piolet D’Or Recipient

2016 Cutting Edge Award for Excellence in Alpine Climbing

2014 Top 5 Finalist, Piolet d’Or

2010 New Zealand Alpinist of the Year

  • First Ascent, South East Face, Link Sar (7041m), Pakistani Karakoram (M6+ WI 4 90°, 2300m). 2019

  • First Ascent, The Pace of Comfort, Kichatna Spire, Alaksa (VI 5.10 A3+ M6 70-degree snow; 3,100 feet). 2022

  • Attempted first alpine-style ascent of K2, via the FA of the West Ridge Direct. Thwarted at 7000m by abnormally hot conditions. 2021

  • First Ascent, The American Indirect, Mount MacDonald (WI4+ M7, 1000m). 2018

  • First Ascent, West Face Direct of Celeno Peak (13,395 feet), St. Elias, AK (M6 5.10 X A2+ 95 degrees, 6,000 feet). 2016

  • First Ascent, 'Pink Rabbits' on Block Tower, Purcell Mountains, Canada (5.11 A2, 1,400'). 2016

  • First Ascent, Southwest Ridge of K6 West (7040m), Pakistani Karakoram August 2015 (M6, 90degrees, 1800m)

  • First Ascent, Changi Tower (6500m) via the North Ridge, Pakistani Karakoram, August 2015 (M6, 5.10 A2, 600m)

  • First Ascent, West Face of Titanic Peak, Revelations Range, Alaska, May 2014 (V, M6, 5.8, 50 degrees, 4,000’)

  • First Ascent, Bossanova, Aguja Guillaumet, Argentine Patagonia, December 2013 (IV 5.11+, A2, 1,200’)

  • First Ascent, East Buttress of The Angel, Revelations Range, Alaska, July 2013 (V, 5.10, 50 degrees, 3,700’)

  • First Ascent, East Face of Mt Laurens, Lacuna Glacier, Alaska, May 2013 (V, M7, WI4, A1, 4,700’)

  • First Ascent, Vitalogy, SW Buttress of Mt Bradley, Ruth Gorge, Alaska, April 2010 (V, WI5, M6+, 5.9, A1 4,600’) 

  • First Ascent, Central North Buttress, Kyzyl-Muz (5100m), Pamir Alai, Kyrgyzstan, July 2008 (V, 5.10, AI3, 5,600’) 

  • 3rd Ascent 'Nosferatu', Vampire Peak, Southern Alps, New Zealand, November 2007 (NZgr 6, WI5+, 2,450’)

  • Multiple 1 day ascents of El Capitan and other major walls in Yosemite Valley as well as many in Zion, UT and Washington State

  • Numerous other FAs and FFAs in Alaska, WA state, Colorado, Montana, British Columbia, Patagonia and New Zealand

  • Ascents including 5.12, M10, WI6+ and A3+ 

  • Active member of the American (National Board Member), New Zealand and British Alpine Clubs.

  • Recipient of many grants including the Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award, Mugs Stump Award, Copp-Dash Inspire Award, NZAC Expedition Fund and The Mount Everest Foundation Expedition Fund.